After fixing the loose screws on my bed, I discovered how difficult it was to move around the bed. I heard about the Kirigami bed mount as it was included in LDO kits and some FormBot kits. It seemed like a relatively simple mod, so I decided to install it.
I already had Wagos, heatset inserts, and screws from building my Voron. I sourced my steel frame from AliExpress. Unfortunately, the part I received was bent and had chipped paint. I was able to receive a partial refund and straightened it as much as I could.
I printed the following STLs from the repository.
I also printed the following LDO mod STLs from this repository
I didn’t end up using the
kirigami_wago_mount isn’t shown in the photo.
I ended following Maple Leaf Makers’ video for assembly.
First, I did all my heatset inserts and screwed all the printed parts onto the steel frame.
I then removed all my panels and then my motor. Next, I removed the linear rails and used zip ties to prevent the carriages from falling off.
Then I removed the bed and set it on the printer’s frame. I didn’t have the JST connector for my thermistor so it needed to stay connected.
Removing the old bed frame from the rails was difficult as the screws were stuck. I had to use WD40 to remove the screws. It looked like white lithium grease from the rails ended up hardening in the threads.
I then reattached the linear rails onto the printer. This was also difficult as my screws wouldn’t catch onto the nuts. I ended up facing my printer face down so the nuts would fall downwards.
After the rails were attached, I started attaching the steel frame onto the linear rails. The bolts from the original bed frame were M2x8 SHCS. I ended up adding two M2 nuts as a spacer.
Mounting Kirigami to the linear rails
Unfortunately, I forgot to attach the chain, so I had to remove all the screws. I ended up replacing the M2x8 screws with M2x6 SHCS with one M2 nut. The rails were binding, so I loosened and adjusted the screws.
Then, I reinstalled the Z motor, holding the spring and other half of the anti-backlash nut in place while screwing. I also reinstalled the bed onto the frame.
Finally, I used the Wagos to attached all the cables. In the video, they ended up bonding the heater bed and fuse. I had extra Wago connectors so I opted to not bond them.
All that was left was to do a
PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=100 and
SAVE_CONFIG. I noticed that the Z endstop needed to be slightly lowered.
I started with this mod as I thought it would’ve been the easiest. It ended up much harder than I thought due to all the screws. In the future, I might get a JST PCB so the thermistor can be removed to entirely remove the bed. Overall, the bed looks much better and hopefully maintenance should be easier.